New York Vogue Week skipped correct back into action after an 18-month pause with Collina Strada’s spring 2022 demonstrate tonight. Situated on Brooklyn Grange’s rooftop backyard garden in Sunset Park, the show was a raucous welcome again to organization as usual—although there is pretty much nothing at all typical about the way Hillary Taymour does small business.
A few days just before the exhibit, she was in her Manhattan studio, fitting Precious Okoyomon in a fuzzy purple gown for an MTV runway demonstrate and outlining the vital appears of her collection: “We’ve received a farm queen, damaged skater queen, prom queen,” began Taymour, “and a frog princess.” The uncomplicated concept was that after a 12 months of doldrums, we should all have the independence to dress up as the queens we are.
But this period, fairly than go total Animorphs as she’s carried out in the previous, Taymour has located a pleased marriage concerning the purely natural earth and the world around her. She’s deftly fusing literal backyard garden references with authentic-globe pragmatism: The actress Sasha Frolova walked in a macramé skirt and a hand-beaded bodysuit—Taymour’s just take on a basket of new-plucked flowers—hand-in-hand with her grandmother, who performed the gardener. The voluminous, wafty attire, mostly layered more than pants on the runway, had been for those people sticky summer months days when you really feel ick about your overall body, but you’ve obtained to go out. A new trouser fashion had a thong developed in, for when you really feel warm, and belts ended up designed to glance like crystal tramp stamps—for when you really feel truly warm. There ended up tons of new layering items like upcycled tees, cargo trousers, bias-lower and draped midi skirts, and even swimwear, not to point out the sculpted horse and beetle corsets. The former was drawn from Taymour’s past existence as an equestrian—she also created successful-ribbon bags—her four-calendar year-old niece modeled the beetle on the runway, one particular of Collina Strada’s quite a few picked household customers who have grown with the manufacturer.
Seem even closer, and you’ll locate dozens of new add-ons too, like upcycled raffia bags and necklaces and straps made from studio detritus. The level of handwork in this collection was dialed up exponentially, with hand-beaded pasties and flowers accompanying much more producible products like doodle denims and a new collaboration with Levi’s that birthed star-studded straight legs and typical denim jackets.
On the runway Taymour dialed the wackiness of it all up to 11 as very well. Versions plucked carrots, sprinted down the catwalk, waved, laughed, and hugged while two are living performances took put. The entrance row—composed of Kim Petras, Tommy Dorfman, Hari Nef, Aaron Philip, Camila Mendes, and Ella Emhoff—was consuming it up, possibly even pretty much. An errant carrot on the runway, whilst rhinestone-studded, would have manufactured a nice snack. That begs yet another problem: The glitterati obsess about farm-to-table bistros, why not an similarly sustainable method to style? In addition to bringing the very good vibes and superior octane enjoyable to NYFW, Taymour also provides a deep determination to cutting down squander, turning bottle caps into items of substantial style jewelry. As we return to Manner 7 days “as typical,” additional of her peers should really consider executing things the Collina Strada way.